Move over scallions.  I may have to cheat on you.

My love affair with dim sum scallion pancakes is no secret.  There are few times I can think of when they don't appeal to me.  (or make me start to go all Pavlovian as I even type the words.)  Though green and doing very well, the scallions planted in my garden are still about the size of glorified dental floss and won't be serving up any exotic savories for a few weeks.

However, we do have garlic scapes!  And herbs!  Lots of both!

Scallions?  Who needs scallions?

While not exactly a necessity, (more of an insatiable craving), mother invention shone down and offered up this bright, summery, mildly garlicky, herby, southeast Asian-inspired perfection on a greasy paper towel.  There is a tremendous (and tremendously cheap) hole-in-the-wall dumpling shop in NYC's Chinatown, to which I make frequent pilgrimages.  Alongside their dumplings, they have a monstrous cast iron pan in which they make a very similar sesame pancake.  You can get a pizza-slice-sized wedge "stuffed with veggies" for $1.25, which is split laterally and crammed with shredded carrot and chopped cilantro leaves and stems.  There was definitely some inspiration from there in this as well.

Give these a try, using all that summer is offering up right now.  Shredded zucchini, carrot or beet, torn squash blossoms, thyme, sage, thinly sliced chard could all be welcome additions.  Fried dough + farm fresh herbs and produce = What could possibly be bad?

	Garlic Scape and Herb Pancakes by Catie Schwalb Makes three 8-10″ pancakes. I used half all-purpose flour and half cake flour. Cake flour, available in the baking aisle at the grocery store, has a lower gluten content, resulting in a dough that wasn’t as tough, and I could roll out thinly much more easily, as it wasn’t springing back as I tried to roll. However, you can make this entirely of AP flour, it might just be a little more challenging to roll out thin or need to rest a little longer. 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/4 cups cake flour 3/4 cup warm water About 3 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1/2 cup total of garlic scapes, cilantro (leaves and stems), and thai basil, sliced thin salt peanut or canola oil, for frying and oiling the bowl Combine flours together. Add water, either in a well in the middle of the flours, or in a stand mixer with a dough hook, and work to evenly combine. Knead for about three minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Place the ball of dough into a slightly oiled (peanut or canola) bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and let rest for about thirty minutes. Divide dough into three equal pieces (or more depending on the size of pancake you wish). Roll one piece of dough out into a circle, as thinly as possible. Brush one side of rolled out dough with a very thin layer of sesame oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and scatter garlic scapes, basil and cilantro evenly and liberally over the dough, making sure to get the edges. Starting at the edge, carefully roll dough in one direction, encompassing the filling, until you have a long rope. Coil the rope (think: cinnamon bun) into a tight bundle.  Cover with a damp cloth and allow to rest for about thirty minutes. After it has rested, flatten the coil slightly with your hand. Roll the disk with a rolling pin, until it is an even circle about 8-10″ in diameter. Heat a tablespoon of peanut or canola oil in a pan over medium-high heat, until the oil shimmers. Gently place the pancake in the pan, laying it away from you as you put it in–so you don’t get splashed with oil. Fry gently for about two minutes on both sides until golden brown. Drain briefly on a paper towel. Cut into wedges. Serve warm with a dipping sauce of soy sauce infused with slices of fresh ginger.

 

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Catie Baumer Schwalb is a chef, food writer and photographer, who splits her life between the city and the country. Not too long ago Catie was a New York City based actress and playwright for more than a decade. She has her Master of Fine Arts from the National Theater Conservatory, and her Grand Diplôme in classic culinary arts from the French Culinary Institute in New York City. ... Read More ≫

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